La Iglesia de la Compañía, just off the Plaza de Armas in Arequipa.

Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru. It is often called ‘The White City’ because many of it’s building are made using a local volcanic rock know as Sillar.

If you look at a satellite image of Arequipa or even while you are walking around the city, one thing you will notice is that it is surrounded by large volcanos. One volcano, called Chachani produced all ths white rock during eruptions in the past. No-one is sure exactly when it last erupted but it is thought it was during the ‘Pleistocene’ era, but that is between 2.5 million to 12,000 years ago!

Sillar has historically been used in almost every type of construction in Arequipa, from simple walls around fields to houses and the city’s cathedral. You can see it everywhere and it gives Arequipa a distinct character, a bit like how Bath in England has a special character from its local stone.

Because it can be carved easily, many building have elaborate decorations all over them. You can see some excellent examples of this in the churches in Arequipa.

Banco International del Peru, with traditional Sillar carvings.

It is not just the traditional buildings that have this white stone. Many newer building have kept with the tradition and use Sillar which helps to keep the special character of Arequipa.

]]> http://www.anaperuana.com/2010/06/27/sillar-the-volcanic-rock-of-arequipa/feed/ 0 http://www.anaperuana.com/2010/01/10/lima-capital-of-peru/ http://www.anaperuana.com/2010/01/10/lima-capital-of-peru/#comments Sun, 10 Jan 2010 19:48:45 +0000 Ana http://www.anaperuana.com/?p=1773

The Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas of Lima

Lima is the capital and largest city of Peru. Most of the tourists that visit Peru begin their journey here and stop over on the way back home.

Lima was founded in 1535, by Francisco Pizarro, the conquistador who conquered the Incas and stole their gold (a post Imperial view ). He founded the city as the capital for the Viceroyalty of Peru which covered most of South America at that time. After Peru became independent of Spain in 1821, Lima became the Capital of the new Republic.

The population of Lima is estimated at over 7.5 million people (a quarter of nearly 29 million people in Peru). It has many ethnic mixes with immigrants from Europe and Asia mixing with the indigenous people of Peru.

Gateway to Peru

If you want to explore mysterious Machu Picchu, go surfing in Mancora, rafting in Colca Canyon the chances are that you will begin with a flight to Lima.

Many international flights to Peru will land in the evening at Jorge Chavez International Airport (airport code LIM). Unfortunately the airport, which is a safe and clean place, is based in a rough area. You will need to get a taxi to your hotel, and you will be asked by many people if you have a taxi or a hotel, partly to sell you services but also to ensure that you are safe, because you can’t just hop on a bus with all your luggage.

My tip for any tourists planning to come to Peru via Lima is to book your hotel before you arrive and ask them to arrange for you to be collected from the airport. They will be waiting for you with your name on a sign and so you know that they are taking you where you need to go. Most of the travellers from Europe or North America will stay in the wealthy Miraflores district of Lima. This are is very close to the coast and has many hotels, backpacker hostels, bars and restaurants. It is also a safe place for tourists, providing you do not attract the wrong attention by flashing expensive gadgets or lots of money.

Many tourists stay in the Miraflores District of Lima – take a small tour >>

Jorge Chavez International Airport:
http://www.lap.com.pe/lap_portal/ingles/index.asp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jorge_Ch%C3%A1vez_International_Airport
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viceroyalty_of_Peru

Cusco - Capital of the Inca Empire

Once the heart of the Inca Empire, at the centre of their universe they considered it ‘the navel of the world’. Cusco is an important stopping point on any journey to Machu Picchu, but it is worth some time to explore too if you visit.

Cusco (also spelled Cuzco) is a city located in Southern Peru in the Andes at 3,000 m (11,000 ft). It was considered to be at the very heart of the Inca’s world, where the four provinces of their empire met. After the arrival of the Spanish in 1533 the Inca empire fell apart and this great city of the Incas was gradually covered in colonial buildings, many of them built on the foundations of the Inca buildings and temples.

In 1950 a major earthquake hit Cusco, and damaged many buildings. Interestingly the Inca’s stonework, long believed lost was revealed in many places as plaster fell away. The Incas extraordinary skill with stone meant that their buildings were stronger, often with no stright lines that are weak in an earthquake and so they remained.

It was decided that many of the buildings would be kept with the old Inca stonework on view and in many streets you can see the strange combination of Inca stones and Spanish Colonial buildings merged together.

There are also many ruins nearby that are worth visiting, such as Pisac and Sacsayhuamán, where you will be impressed by the huge stone walls built by the Incas and their predecessors.

From Cusco to Machu Picchu

Of course, many people visit Cusco as part of a journey to Machu Picchu. You cannot travel directly to Machu Picchu from Lima or even Cusco, but from Cusco you can take the train to the village of Aguas Calientes (meaning ‘Hot Waters’ due to some hot springs there which can be visited). Then from Aguas Calientes you can get a bus to the tourist entrance for Machu Picchu. The train journey is about 3 ½ hours, travelling up over the hills outside Cusco then down the Urubamba river (Machu Picchu is at 2,400 m or 8,000 ft. – so is lower than Cusco).

If you have not organised a specific trip do not worry, many people will sell your trips to Machu Picchu or other sights, select carefully and ask for ID if you are not sure. Your hotel may be able to recommend someone. I have used a service through the hotel I stayed in and we got our tickets for the train, a hotel in Aguas Calientes and entry into Machu Picchu for a good price.

Travel to Cusco, Peru. Some helpful travel tips

Cusco can be reached by road or air from most major cities in Peru. If you are travelling from outside of Peru you will most likely need to fly to Lima and then get a connecting flight to Cusco. However many international flights to Peru arrive in Lima too late to travel onwards to other cities by plane or by bus. So you expect and plan to spend a night in a hotel in Lima before starting your journey to Cusco.

The bus journeys are very long and often involve sleeping on the bus. They are very affordable and saves a night in a hotel or hotel. A good choice for back packers who want to see the land close up.  See ‘Bus Travel in Peru‘ for more details about the bus services.

I recommend selecting companies with modern and well maintained buses, such as Cruz del Sur who also have comfortable reclining chairs to sleep in.

Bus from Lima to Cusco:
Cruz del Sur – operate two services each day. Journey times are about 21 hours (travelling overnight). Have an excellent 1st class section.
Ormeño – from Lima via Arequipa or Ayacucho – 22 or 24 hours respectively. (No online booking when I checked)

Bus from Arequipa to Cusco:
Cruz del Sur – at least one departure daily. Journey time is around 10 hours.

Flights to Cusco are more expensive but very quick and can show you some amazing views of the snow capped Andes and the deep valleys around Cusco. Be warned the journey from the coastal climate of Lima to the high altitudes of Cusco is so fast that your body may struggle at first to cope with the thinner air. Altitude sickness can affect tourists, although many just find they are breathless when walking. When you step out of the pressurised airplane you will notice almost immediately. Just do as the locals do and try the Coca Tea to ease your symptoms.

Flights from Lima to Cusco:
LAN Peru – several flights each day to and from Cusco, flights from Lima are approx 1 hour 15 minutes.
Star Peru – two flights each day from Lima to Cusco. Flight time is also 1 hour 15 minutes.

Flights from Arequipa to Cusco:
LAN Peru – You will need to change at Lima, which makes a combined flight of about 3 hours 30 minutes.

International flights to Cusco from Europe, United States, etc:
All international flights will connect through Lima, then onto Cusco with LAN Peru or Star Peru.

Flights from La Paz, Bolivia to Cusco:
AeroSur – From La Paz there is a 55 minute flight to Cusco. It is possible to fly AeroSur from Madrid to Cusco via La Paz.

Links:
LAN Peru airline – www.lan.com
Star Peru airline – www.starperu.com
AeroSur, Bolivian airline - www.aerosur.com
Cruz del Sur, Bus company – www.cruzdelsur.com.pe
Grupo Ormeño, Bus company – www.grupo-ormeno.com.pe
Peru Rail, trains from Cusco to Machu Picchu – www.perurail.com

The Old Cemetery in Yungay, Peru

Huaraz tours will often include a visit to Yungay, a nearby town that was completely buried in a massive landslide during the 1970 earthquake killing over 25,000 people, only 92 people survived, mainly children that were attending a circus in an area that escaped the rocks and soil that rushed down the mountain. The entire town was declared a national cemetery. The total area affected by the earthquake that caused this landslide was larger than Belgium and The Netherlands combined and killed more than 74,000 people, over 143,000 injured and over a million homeless.

The ruins of the church in Yungay, Peru

The valley where Yungay used to be is beautiful and full of good farmland but when you visit Yungay you will see that there it is covered in a deep layer of rocks and mud with huge boulders sticking out. There are also ruins of the church and a crushed bus that was high in the mountains when the landslide happened.

Outside Yungay, there is the Huascaran National Park in the Cordillera Blanca, it was declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. The highest mountain is the Huascaran (6768 meters high, the highest in Peru), another important peaks are the Alpamayo, Pisco, Huandoy, Hualcan, etc.

It’s possible to walk in the mountains to an altitude of 6000 m without being en experienced climber, but there are another parts that are just for more experienced climbers.

There are beautiful lagoons like Llanganuco, Chinancocha, Orconcoha, etc. this lagoons have green- turquoise water and are popular with tourists and they are surrounded by forests. There are another very beautiful under the peaks Artesonraju and Alpamayo but the access is very difficult.

There are about 22 hotsprings, Monterrey is the most popular with tourist at 2073 meters above sea level.

In the 1960′s it was discovered that a cave in this area contained evidence of humans living in there between 10,000 – 12,000 years ago.

Ah! Yungay!

There is another funny fact about Yungay, it has a street in Lima named after it. In a famous Peruvian advert for a company that offered English lessons a beautiful ‘Gringa’ goes to a security man and says she wants to take him to her country and be his slave and says ‘I Love you guy’… but the man does not understand and thinks she said ‘Yungay’ and starts to give her directions on how to get to Yungay ‘…you walk six blocks and turn right’!  Then the advert says ‘If you don’t know English you can miss many things in life’.

It became very famous in Peru and became a kind of phrase. When someone was explaining something to you and you wanted to show you understood you would reply ‘..Ahhh, Yungay!’

You can see the advert here on YouTube (in a new window) >>